There’s a version of Baja California Sur that most visitors never find. They land in Los Cabos, spend a week at a resort, and fly home thinking they’ve seen it. They haven’t.
The real draw is about an hour north of the airport, where Highway 19 runs along the Pacific and the towns get smaller, the beaches get quieter, and the pace of life changes completely. This is southern Baja a stretch of coast centered around Todos Santos, El Pescadero, and Cerritos Beach, backed by the Sierra de La Laguna mountains and facing the open Pacific Ocean.
It’s the part of Baja that chefs, surfers, artists, and repeat visitors are quietly obsessed with. A UNESCO Biosphere Reserve town turned into a creative hub. Empty beaches within walking distance of world-class restaurants. Gray whales are so close to shore you can watch them migrate from a beach chair.
This guide covers everything you need to plan a trip here: the best things to do, when to come, where to eat, how to stay safe, and what makes this corner of the Baja Peninsula unlike anywhere else in Mexico.
What Is Southern Baja California Sur?
The Baja California Peninsula stretches about 1,200 kilometers from the US border down to Cabo San Lucas. The southern third Baja California Sur is its own state, and the part visitors typically mean when they say “Baja” without further explanation.
Most people know Los Cabos: the resort strip at the very tip of the peninsula where the Pacific meets the Sea of Cortez. But the corridor running north from Cabo along Highway 19 is a different world. The landscape opens up. The crowds thin out. The mountains of the Sierra de La Laguna Biosphere Reserve appear on your right while the Pacific stretches endlessly to your left.
The towns in this stretch Todos Santos, El Pescadero, Cerritos, and a handful of smaller communities are where the region’s real character lives. Todos Santos is a Pueblo Mágico, a federally designated “Magical Town,” recognized for its cultural and historical significance. It has a thriving gallery scene, an exceptional restaurant culture, and a relaxed energy that draws creative people from around the world. El Pescadero is the quieter neighbor to the south, known for organic farms, surf camps, and some of the best tacos in the region.
The beaches along this stretch of Pacific coastline are powerful and often uncrowded. Several are world-renowned surf breaks; others are barely visited and feel entirely your own.
Understanding the geography helps with planning. Cabo San Lucas is your likely entry point — the airport sits between Cabo and San Jose del Cabo. From there, Todos Santos is roughly an hour north on Highway 19, and most properties in the El Pescadero / Cerritos area sit between 40 and 55 minutes from the airport.
Best Things to Do in Todos Santos
Todos Santos has been slowly drawing people in for decades. Artists came first, attracted by the light and the colonial architecture. Then chefs. Then surfers. Now it hosts a mix of long-term expats, weekending Mexicans, and international visitors who came for a few days and rearranged their schedules to stay longer.
The town itself is small enough to walk. The historic center has cobblestone streets, brightly painted facades, and a central plaza that fills up on weekend evenings. The old Teatro Márquez de León has been restored and still hosts live performances. The church of Nuestra Señora del Pilar anchors the zócalo and dates back to the 18th century mission period.
Beyond the architecture, the activity list in Todos Santos is genuinely varied. A morning might start with a surf lesson at a nearby beach, followed by a slow coffee at a courtyard café, a walk through three or four galleries, and a long lunch that stretches into the afternoon. In the evenings, the restaurant scene punches far above the town’s size.
Day trips from Todos Santos are excellent. The Sierra de La Laguna trailheads are accessible from here, and the drive through farming valleys toward the mountains passes fig orchards, sugarcane fields, and old ranch properties. The beach at La Poza, a freshwater lagoon separated from the ocean by a thin strip of sand, is a consistent birding spot and one of the stranger, more beautiful landscapes in the area.
Things to Do in El Pescadero
El Pescadero sits about ten minutes south of Todos Santos on Highway 19, and most travelers drive through it on the way to Cerritos without stopping. That’s a mistake.
The town has a slower, more local feel than its better-known neighbor. It’s a farming community at its core the fertile valley here produces tomatoes, peppers, herbs, and tropical fruit that supply restaurants as far away as Los Cabos. Several farms sell directly to visitors, and a handful of restaurants have built their menus around what’s growing nearby that week.
The surf culture here is strong. El Pescadero has produced some of the region’s most respected local surfers, and the beaches nearby draw a crowd that’s more focused on the waves than on being seen. Surf camps and lessons are easy to find and tend to be smaller and more personalized than the bigger operations near Cabo.
Beyond surfing, the area rewards slow exploration. The dirt roads heading toward the coast pass through ejido land and small ranchos where life moves at a completely different pace than the highway towns. There are rock pools suitable for snorkeling when the swell is low, informal restaurants that only locals know about, and stretches of beach where you might spend an entire afternoon without seeing another person.
The midweek farmers’ market in El Pescadero is worth timing your schedule around if you can. Local producers, prepared food, and occasionally live music make it a genuinely pleasant morning.
Cerritos Beach Guide
Cerritos is the most accessible surf beach in this part of Baja, and it earns that reputation honestly. The wave here is a consistent, forgiving right-hand point break that works for beginners when the swell is moderate and challenges experienced surfers when the Pacific sends in something bigger.
But Cerritos is more than a surf spot. The beach itself is wide and long, with a flat stretch of sand at low tide that families use for everything from soccer to kite flying. The water is cleaner here than at most Cabo-area beaches, and the current is more manageable than some of the rawer Pacific breaks nearby.
Several surf schools operate on the beach, ranging from full-day camps aimed at beginners to more technical coaching sessions. Board rentals are available for people who want to paddle out on their own. On days when the surf is flat, the beach is perfect for swimming — the right side of the point, protected by the rock formation, tends to be calmer.
The restaurants and small businesses along the beach road have grown in quality over the past several years. You’ll find everything from cold beers and fish tacos to full menus with ceviche, aguachile, and wood-fired dishes. The crowd at Cerritos is a mix of Mexican families, expats, surfers, and day-trippers from the Los Cabos hotels who’ve done their research.
Cerritos sits about ten minutes from the Lejos de Todo property close enough for a morning surf session before breakfast, with enough distance that the property itself stays completely quiet.
Whale Watching in Baja Sur
Every winter, gray whales complete one of the longest migrations of any mammal on earth. They travel roughly 16,000 kilometers from their feeding grounds in the Arctic Bering Sea down to the warm, sheltered lagoons of Baja California Sur, where they give birth and nurse their calves before making the return trip north.
The main nursery lagoons Laguna Ojo de Liebre and Laguna San Ignacio are further north on the peninsula and require a dedicated trip. But the whale watching along the southern Pacific coast is genuinely exceptional in its own right. The whales pass through these waters on their migration, and from roughly December through April, it’s common to spot them from shore. Guests at Lejos de Todo regularly watch gray whales from the beachfront patio, sometimes close enough to see the water clearing from a blow without binoculars.
For a closer encounter, guided whale watching tours operate out of Todos Santos and Cabo San Lucas throughout the season. The best operators take small groups on zodiacs and practice responsible wildlife distance guidelines avoid any tour that advertises “touching” or intentionally approaches animals. The wildlife here is wild, and that’s the point.
Humpback whales are also present in these waters during winter months, and blue whales the largest animals on earth have been documented in the area seasonally. Whale shark encounters are possible further into the Sea of Cortez, particularly near La Paz.
The season peak is January through March, with February typically offering the highest density of whales.
Todos Santos Food Scene
The dining in Todos Santos is one of those things that surprises people who arrive expecting a sleepy beach town. The restaurant scene here would be exceptional in a city ten times the size.
A few factors explain it. The region’s agricultural production is serious the farms around El Pescadero and the Todos Santos valley supply fresh produce year-round. The Pacific coastline provides excellent seafood, with local fishermen bringing in yellowfin tuna, wahoo, mahi-mahi, snapper, and shrimp. And Todos Santos has been attracting skilled chefs for long enough now that there’s an established culinary culture rather than a handful of outlier restaurants.
The range is wide. You can eat extraordinarily well at a roadside taco stand the fish taco culture here is its own category worth exploring and then equally well at a reservation-only dinner with a carefully developed tasting menu. Farm-to-table as a concept exists here in a fairly literal sense: several restaurants have kitchen gardens, and menus genuinely change based on what’s available.
The café and coffee culture has also matured. Several spots have opened in Todos Santos that would hold their own in any serious coffee city, sourcing Mexican beans and roasting with real attention. These make excellent morning anchors before a day of exploring.
Many guests base themselves at Lejos de Todo and drive into Todos Santos for dinner, which is an ideal arrangement about twenty minutes each way, and you return to a completely quiet property with no resort noise and full views of the Pacific.
Todos Santos Art Galleries
Todos Santos has had a functioning gallery scene since the 1990s, when artists began settling here drawn by the quality of the light, the affordable studios, and the distance from more commercial art markets. What started as a small community of painters and sculptors has grown into something genuinely significant.
The galleries in town range from tightly curated exhibition spaces to artist studios that feel more like a living room where someone happens to paint. You’ll find work in a broad range of styles: large figurative paintings, detailed desert landscapes, abstract work, sculpture in wood and metal, ceramics, and photography. Local artists and visiting artists from Mexico City, the US, and further afield all show here.
The concentration of galleries in the historic center makes walking gallery circuits easy. Several are clustered within a few blocks of each other, and the owners are almost always present and willing to talk about the work, the artists, or the history of the building you’re standing in. There’s no pretension here the art scene has a working-town quality that suits the surroundings.
The Todos Santos Art Festival, typically held in winter when the weather is ideal and the town’s population swells with seasonal visitors, is one of the region’s most attended cultural events. Timing a visit around it adds another dimension to the trip.
Even if you’re not a buyer, the galleries are worth your time. Walking through a few of them gives you a much better read on what makes Todos Santos different from other Mexican beach destinations.
Hidden Beaches on the Pacific Coast
The Pacific coastline between El Pescadero and Todos Santos is not short of beaches. What’s striking is how undeveloped most of them remain. Drive the dirt roads heading west off Highway 19 and you’ll find yourself on stretches of sand where the only tracks in either direction are from other off-road vehicles and the occasional fisherman’s quad.
Some of these beaches are known by local names that don’t appear on any map. Others are identified only by their GPS coordinates, shared between surfers or passed along by property owners like Mario and Vanessa at Lejos de Todo, who have spent years building relationships with local knowledge.
A few things to know before you head out to explore them. These are Pacific-facing beaches with real ocean energy the waves are powerful, the currents can be strong, and some spots are suitable for swimming only in specific conditions. Asking locally before swimming at an unfamiliar beach is always worth doing. Many of the most beautiful spots are accessible only by four-wheel drive, and some require walking the last stretch on foot.
That said, the payoff is significant. An empty beach on the Baja Pacific, backed by desert scrub and cacti with the Sierra de La Laguna in the distance and nobody else visible in either direction, is a genuinely rare experience. Rock formations at several of these spots create natural pools that fill at high tide, excellent for snorkeling when visibility is good.
The beach directly in front of Lejos de Todo is private and never crowded. Guests consistently walk north from the property to reach the rock formations and caves at Secret Rocks one of the more striking coastal features in the immediate area.
Best Time to Visit Baja California Sur
Southern Baja California Sur has a desert climate moderated by the Pacific Ocean. Understanding the seasonal rhythm helps you plan a trip that matches your expectations.
November through April is peak season for most visitors, and with good reason. Temperatures are comfortable — daytime highs typically range from the low 20s to around 28°C (mid-70s to low 80s°F), with cool evenings that make sleeping easy. Humidity is low. Rain is rare. These months overlap with gray whale season, the Todos Santos Art Festival, and the region’s busiest cultural calendar. It’s also when accommodations book out fastest, so planning ahead matters.
December and January can see cooler nights and occasionally choppy surf conditions from winter swells. February and March are widely considered the sweet spot: warm days, excellent whale watching, and a lively but not overwhelmed town atmosphere.
May and June represent a transitional period. Temperatures climb, tourist numbers drop, and prices follow. The Pacific is often calmer in this period, making it good for swimming and snorkeling. Experienced travelers who don’t mind heat sometimes prefer this window for exactly those reasons.
July through October is hurricane season. The risk of a direct hit is low, but summer storms, humidity, and high temperatures make this the off-season for a reason. Some restaurants and businesses reduce hours or close entirely. September is the most active month for tropical storm activity.
The surf is year-round, though the character of the swell changes. Winter brings northwest swells that light up many of the better-known breaks. Summer swells tend to come from the south and work differently across the same spots.
Is Baja California Sur Safe?
Baja California Sur is consistently one of the safest states in Mexico. It has its own entry on the US State Department’s Mexico advisory, and it regularly receives a lower-risk designation than many major US cities. That said, the question deserves a direct and honest answer rather than dismissal.
The tourist corridor from Los Cabos north through Todos Santos and El Pescadero has not experienced the cartel-related violence that has affected certain other Mexican states. The economy here runs on tourism, agriculture, and fishing, and the local interest in keeping things safe and welcoming for visitors is genuine. Visitors who exercise the same common sense they’d use traveling anywhere don’t flash expensive gear, don’t walk unfamiliar areas alone at night, pay attention to local advice have a smooth experience.
Highway 19 between Cabo and Todos Santos is a well-maintained two-lane road and perfectly safe to drive during the day. Some of the dirt roads heading to remote beaches are rougher and better suited to a four-wheel-drive vehicle, but they’re not dangerous in any meaningful sense.
Water safety deserves mention separately. The Pacific-facing beaches have real ocean conditions. Some spots with powerful shore breaks and lateral currents are not suitable for casual swimming, particularly for children. Asking at your accommodation which beaches are safest for swimming on any given day is always good practice. The team at Lejos de Todo can point you toward calm swimming spots based on current conditions.
Healthcare in Los Cabos is reasonably developed by regional standards, with private hospitals available for serious needs. Todos Santos has a clinic for minor issues, and the drive to Cabo for more significant care is about an hour.
Where to Stay: Lejos de Todo
If you’re planning a trip to southern Baja and want to be genuinely removed from the resort circuit while staying close to everything worth doing, Lejos de Todo is worth looking at carefully.
The property sits on Km 82 of Highway 19, south of El Pescadero, directly on the Pacific coast. It has seven individual casitas arranged around a central courtyard with a pool and hot tub, a full outdoor kitchen under a palapa, and a massive beachfront patio with direct access to a private beach.
The casitas range from single queen configurations to ocean-view king rooms, giving it flexibility for couples, solo travelers, small groups, and families. The property has been featured on The Destination Channel, and the reviews from guests who’ve stayed are consistent: the combination of genuine privacy, quality design, and proximity to both Cerritos and Todos Santos is difficult to find elsewhere in the region.
Starlink-powered WiFi extends to the beach, which makes Lejos de Todo a genuine option for digital nomads who don’t want to sacrifice a Pacific-facing workspace. The hosts, Mario and Vanessa, are known for steering guests toward off-menu experiences: restaurants down dirt roads that don’t show up on travel apps, local outfitters for side-by-side rides or snorkeling, secret swimming spots that only come up in conversation.
The private beach access is worth emphasizing. The stretch of coast directly in front of the property is uncrowded even in peak season, and guests regularly watch gray whales from the patio during the winter months.
You can book the property casita by casita for individual travelers or couples, or take the whole place for group retreats and family buyouts.
Getting Around Southern Baja
Renting a car gives you the most flexibility and is the recommended approach for this part of Baja. The rental desks at Los Cabos International Airport are well-stocked and reasonably priced by Mexican standards. You don’t strictly need a four-wheel-drive vehicle for the main roads, but if you plan to explore dirt roads and remote beach access points, it’s worth the upgrade.
A few practical driving notes. Highway 19 is the primary artery and is straightforward to navigate. The speed bumps (topes) in small towns are serious — they’re not exaggerated. GPS works well throughout the region, and Google Maps handles most navigation reliably, though signal can drop on remote roads.
Lejos de Todo can arrange private transportation if you prefer not to drive. This is particularly useful for nights when you want to eat and drink in Todos Santos without worrying about the return drive. Taxis and rideshare services are available in Los Cabos but thin out north of the resort zone.
For getting around Todos Santos itself, walking covers most of the historic center. For El Pescadero and beach access, you’ll want a vehicle.
Practical Travel Tips
Currency. The Mexican peso is the local currency, and cash is genuinely useful here. Many of the best restaurants and smaller businesses are cash-only or charge a fee for card transactions. ATMs are available in Todos Santos and at major bank branches. Bringing some pesos from the airport avoids the first-day scramble.
Language. Spanish is the working language throughout the region. In Todos Santos and at most tourist-facing businesses, English is widely spoken among staff. Venturing into El Pescadero or smaller communities is easier if you have some basic Spanish, and locals appreciate the effort regardless of fluency.
Water. Tap water is not drinkable. At Lejos de Todo, drinking water is provided. Elsewhere, buy bottled water or use a purification system. This is standard practice throughout Mexico.
Connectivity. Cell service along Highway 19 is generally functional for navigation and data. Some remote beach access points have no signal at all. The Lejos de Todo property runs Starlink and has reliable high-speed internet site-wide.
What to pack. Reef-safe sunscreen is genuinely important here many of the beaches and snorkeling spots are sensitive ecosystems. A light layer for evenings in winter months. Reef shoes if you plan to explore rocky coastline. Cash in pesos. A dry bag if you’re going on a boat or exploring tidal pools.
Restaurants. Reservations are recommended for the better Todos Santos restaurants during peak season, particularly on weekends. Several of the most popular spots fill up early and don’t accept walk-ins after a certain point.
Frequently Asked Questions
Yes. US and Canadian citizens need a valid passport to enter Mexico. Upon arrival, you’ll fill out a tourist card (FMM). At Los Cabos International Airport, this is handled as part of the arrival process.
About 75 to 80 kilometers, which typically takes around an hour by car depending on conditions and how you navigate through the Cabo corridor.
Spanish is the primary language. English is widely spoken in tourist-facing businesses, particularly in Todos Santos, but speaking even a little Spanish is appreciated and makes smaller-town experiences more enjoyable.
No. Baja California Sur is a state of Mexico. It’s on the Baja California Peninsula, which is geographically connected to the US at the border, but the whole peninsula is Mexican territory.
Mexican pesos. USD is accepted at some tourist businesses, but you’ll get better value paying in pesos. ATMs in Todos Santos dispense pesos.
Yes, in most conditions. The right side of the point at Cerritos (when facing the ocean) tends to be calmer and more suitable for swimming, especially with children. The surf zone requires more attention. Ask locally about conditions if you’re unsure.
Gray whales are typically present from December through April, with peak numbers in January through March. Humpbacks and other species can be spotted seasonally throughout the year.
May and June offer warm weather, lower prices, and fewer visitors, though some businesses reduce hours. Avoid July through October if possible due to heat and hurricane season.
Cerritos Beach is the most beginner-friendly surf spot in the area, with surf schools and board rentals on site. Several instructors there specialize in first-time surfers.
Yes. Lejos de Todo has Starlink-powered WiFi that works reliably from the property and extends to the beach. Todos Santos has a growing number of cafés with solid connections as well.
Final Thoughts
Southern Baja California Sur rewards the travelers who bother to look past the airport corridor. The culture, the coastline, the food, and the natural world here are genuinely exceptional and the fact that most visitors never make it this far north of Cabo means much of it still feels like a discovery rather than a checklist.
Whether you’re planning a family trip, a surf-focused solo visit, a creative retreat, or a group getaway that wants privacy without sacrificing quality, this stretch of the Baja Pacific coast has what you’re looking for.
That’s how the best trips happen here.
Stay at Lejos de Todo: Your Base for Exploring Southern Baja
There’s no better place to return to at the end of a long day in Baja than a private beachfront property with a cold drink, a Pacific sunset, and no resort noise.
Lejos de Todo sits in exactly the right spot far enough from the tourist centers to feel genuinely removed, close enough to Cerritos, El Pescadero, and Todos Santos that none of the best parts of the region require a long drive.
Book one casita for a couple’s escape or reserve the whole property for a group. The hosts will help you fill the days and make sure you leave knowing the Baja that most visitors never find.
